Life On The Move

I guess it should really be called “Jack’s summer vacation that Eddie just tagged along on”. But anyway, I followed Jack and his chi chi(father) to his second house on Monday morning, which is 5 mins to the first real Japanese climbing area ever established, Ogawayama. The area has wonderful bouldering and even better sport and trad routes. The first day, after we settled into his killer house, Jack showed me around the bouldering area at Ogawayama. We first climbed on Whale rock and then a couple of the lines on some of the boulders around the whale. Most notable of the problems we climbed in this area are Captain Able v5 and the v3 to the left of it. The V3 was totally killer. a tall problem that moves through some small pockets and ends on a slopper top out. Captain Able is on the same steep face moving through a left hand crack to a very very small left hand crimp throw to a slopper jug. TOUGH. But super fun. I made it to the slopper jug but could not make it to the top. We ended the day with some good beer and very nice cool weather. Yona Yona which is the hoppiest beer I have come across yet is not bad and made locally to this area.

The next day Jack took me to one of his secret climbing areas. With 12 routes currently established and probably 15 more possible this area is sweet. There are a few 10’s, More 11’s and a few 12’s. I was very excited to climb some lines. We climbed a few and then decided to bolt a new line. After a few hours of cleaning and working the moves and cleaning some more the line was complete. We are going to go back on Tuesday next week and I will try and get the FA. It feels like 11d/12a. Jack agrees, but time will tell. A quick stop at the on sen and then we ate a delicious meal of pork, rice, whole garlic cloves, Yona beer, and veggies.

On Wednesday we made it back to the first bouldering area that Jack took me to a few weeks ago. I tried to FA the super cool slopper problem on the trail but with three days on was I was low on skin. After five or six attempts Jack sent first go. Strong work Jack!! Later we hiked up the trail to a cool looking pyramid looking rock that has a splendid left arete. We cleaned the problem off and I sent on the third go. FA v3 named after my son to be Gavin’s Arete. Maybe one day he will climb it too. We will see. Jack promptly sent as well. We then walked over to some more projects that Jack has his eyes on. And then it happened. It started to rain. And rain it did. After a dip in the on sen we drove back to Jacks base camp and I had to head home. I made it back in just over two hours. I am very happy that there is such great climbing so close to home. And not to mention a great climbing partner to show me around. I can not wait to show Gavin and Star these wonderful places.

This weekend is the Friendship Festival on base. The base opens up to the public and thousands of folks come and view all of the planes, drink, and eat. Should be fun. Star and I will go together on Saturday, but then she works on Sunday. Which means I am going climbing. Yes. I love the way that sounds. Tuesday we are heading back to the secret route area and who know from there.

Go Climb Something….cause you know I will be!!!!!!!!!