New Boulder at Mizugaki

This past Sunday I went back up to Mizugaki with Jack and his wife. We originally planned on climbing some routes at the Red and Yellow area, but the rock was just to wet. I was able to finish bolting my newest project. It will probably be a 12b and the pumpiest route at this area. The rock at the area was very wet, but the sector where my new project is located is very steep which kept the lower portion of the route climbable. I roped up and set the draws to work the lower parts. I was able to link the bottom and I think on the next trip I will send it clean.

After lunch we decided to check out a new boulder that we found that we thought would be dry. This boulder is in the open and has no tree cover, which is not usually good this time of the year. We originally thought that this boulder was going to be nice to develop in the winter but figured we could at the least prep it for a send. As it turns out it was a good choice to visit the new boulder. It stopped raining around 2am that morning so by the time we arrived by 1:30pm it was nice and dry. We made quick work of cleaning the block and smoothing out the landing. Almost right away Jack spotted the first problem. He put on his shoes and made a quick FA of the right side of the boulder. I was able to send it in a few tries and Jack’s wife grabbed the 3rd ascent. Next we worked a problem that as it would turn out felt like V7+. Jack was able to make it to the crux but not able to control the final sloper enough to match and send. I made it to the move right before the sloper but, I need to work out the feet a bit more. It was a nice day even though I was not able to work all of my new project. I am looking forward to going back to the new boulder and work the moves on the V7 and hopefully send. Not to mention linking all of my project.

This might be my last post for awhile. I am heading to California. Yosemite to be exact. I will also be making stops in the Santa Monica mountains, Stoney Point, and Bishop. I think that most of Bishop will be to hot but I might be able to find nice temps in the Buttermilks. At the least I hope to take some nice photos. I am also planning to visit some of my favorite breweries while I am in the LA area. I also have several photo projects planned which I hope to share with you all soon. So until next time……

 

 

Go Climb Something!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This entry was posted on Monday, August 29th, 2011 at 8:59 pm. It is filed under mitake, travel and tagged with . You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.

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