Urban Climbing in the Mountains

The weather here in Japan has been very wet since we have come back from California. A typhoon swept through our region and apparently brought fall with it. The past two days have been utterly delightful. Climbing season is here!!

Yesterday Star had a meeting in the ocean side city of Yokuska. Gavin and I decided to go down for the day with her and see what we could get into. I drove south along the coast and stumbled across three large caves on the oceans edge. The rock is very similar to that of Jogasaki. The features are fantastic and the rock appears to be very good. I was with Gavin so I could not check out the rock very high, but 10 feet up the rock feels solid. I am planning on taking some Japanese friends out next week to help me decide if this area is OK to bolt. If so, I have three lines picked out that look super fun and steeply exciting.

Today Jensen, our three kids, and I went for a drive into a near by valley. We took a short stroll to the river side boulders close to the Black Tea House and gave a few easy problems a go. As it turned out we ventured out without the pack-n-play. We were close to the river so one of us had to keep the three kids in arms length the whole time. Need less to say we, only stayed for a couple of hours.

After wrapping things up there we drove deeper into the valley and followed a very narrow switch-back mountain road for another 45 minutes. We were searching for easy to access boulders. We did not find any that we could take three kids t, but we did find a freshly made retainer wall that was begging to be climbed. At 20 feet and a super slabby 80 degrees, I popped off near the top on my first go. Jensen tip toed up next making a very heady and delicate FA of this surprisingly entertaining wall. Nice work Jens.

Tomorrow I am heading up to Mizugaki to start bolting a new area with Jack. I am hope to have a cool time lapse to tease you with of the new 30 meter steep face, littered with horizontal ledges and pockets. Until then…….

 

 

Go Climb Something!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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