Go Climb Something!!!
No matter where the journey takes you, do not forget your camera and climbing shoes.
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Life On The Move
Bouldering Makuiwa
The weather was poor on the southern side of the mountains near Kofu, so Jack decided to take me to a famous area near Tokyo. Makuiwa, near Yugawara, is a climbing and bouldering area featuring well over 200 routes and over 100 problems. The rock at Makuiwa is very similar to that of gritstone which has very nice friction this time of the year. The area is in the middle of a plum blossom field on a mountain side, which is beautiful but makes the climbing season here very short. The weather only permits climbing Nov-March, and the blooming trees take another month off of that time frame because of the tourist.
Of course I had Gavin in tow on this trip, but fortunately the approach is very short at Makuiwa. The first climbable boulders are only a five minute hike from the parking lot. The parking lot is free in the off season, but is 700yen for blooming season and you are not likely to find an open space then either. We hiked another 5 minutes up to most impressive block in this area called the Shell Boulder. The shell boulder has several problems ranging from V0-unsent Chris Sharma projects. The best are the two V6s and a fun V8. That said this is Japan so there are also endless variations to all of these problems that could keep you busy for months. Jack and I tried the center V6, sorry I can not remember any of the names of the problems, but only Jack was able to make this one happen. After losing to much skin on that problem I moved left to the arete and tried the other V6 out next. As it turns out that problem was more my style. Long moves to a tough mantle and a delicate finish. We played around on a few more problems on some other boulders near by, but Shell was the most fun for us. It is also worth mentioning that up hill from the Shell boulder is another large boulder with 5 or 6 problems from V1-V8. All are fun and worth checking out.
On the day that we checked out Makuiwa there was only one other boulderer. But as we hiked up to the small cliff line, about 50 feet tall and mostly sport, there was 20-30 people scattered in small groups climbing routes. This was on a Thursday. Jack said on weekends there are hoards of people. And for some of the more popular routes there are queues 50 climbers long with a numbered list to sign in on. CRAZY!!! I will never go there on a weekend and suggest that you stay clear too.
To access Makuiwa from Tokyo take the Tomei Exspressway to Atsugi and transfer to the Odawara-Atsugi Rd. Both the Odawara-Atsugi and Tomei are toll highways. When the Odawara-Atsugi Rd ends turn left or east and follow signs for 135 south. After another 45 to an hour drive on the 135 next to the coast you will arrive at Yugawara. There is a bridge that you will cross that takes you into the town, but instead immediately after the bridge you will take a very small road alongside the Shinzaki River, take this to the parking lot at Makuiwa. This small road is between the bridge and an Eneos gas station. It is very easy to get lost on this road. Make sure you are driving up hill and that you are on the left side of the river the entire time.
Go Climb Something!!!!
