Ashima In Japan

Last week I had the wonderful privilege of meeting up with Obe Carrion and Ashima Shiraishi while they were on their trip to Japan.  Their trip here is to promote the Reel Rock Film Tour, climb some Japanese stone and for the Shiraishi’s, visit friends and family.

As I have said before my buddy Jack let’s me use his cabin in the Japanese mountains from time to time and because of it’s incredibly close proximity to Ogawayama, I invited Obe, Ashima, and Ashima’s father, Poppo out for a few days of boulder wrastlin’.  The weather turned out to be very nice for this time of the year with highs in the low 70s and low 60s at night.

The first day we hit up Mizugaki.  Obe was starting to get a cold, so he saved his energy for the upcoming shows that they had coming up in a few days.  Ashima on the other hand made quick work of a couple V6s, one V5, and two V8s.  The last V8 that Ashima climbed is considered on of the hardest at Mizugaki, Burning Map.  This is due to the terrible feet and reachy shallow mono pockets, but Ashima sent in just three goes.

The next two days were spent at Ogawayama.  The first day we hiked up to the popular Whale boulder where Captain Ahab is located.  Ashima warmed up on Corporate Staff V3 and sent the tough Captain Ahab V5 in nice style.  Next Ashima sent a low V6 that I can not remember the name of, with a ninja high kick for the finish.  After a quick trip through the Whale boulder area Ashima went down to the lower river side area looking for a popular V8 traverse.  I dropped Ashima and Poppo off at the blocks and went on to drop off an even more sick Obe san back at the cabin.  When I got back Ashima had sent the tough V8 traverse and was working another V8 by the river.  The sun was setting and the friction was not perfect by the river, but the temps were starting to dip into the 60s.  This V8, another I can not remember the name of, has an interesting three move lower section on sharp crimps to a terrible sloper mantel.  The mantel turned out to be Ashima’s crux.  I asked her if she liked slopers and she said “They’er OK, I’m not used to them though.”  Needless to say she sent in a few tries after working the mantel.

The next day we headed back to Ogawayama for Ashima to try one of the well known V10’s on the slab boulder Bansousha, where Nalle sent Tokio Muroi’s 8b problem.  After about three hours of intense effort on this sloper thrash fest, Ashima said “I will be back next year stronger and I will send it then.”  She was very close to sending and we were all really pushing for her to send this very intimidating problem. In the end it did not go.  I think I can speak for all that were present by saying we are very proud of the effort Ashima gave on this problem and on this three day break from the tour.

It should be mentioned that before this trip to the mountains Ashima and Obe went out to another popular are closer to Tokyo called Mitake.  Ashima sent Crab V10 on the Ninja Geashi Boulder.

Obe will be heading back to the states next week and Ashima and her father will be staying in Japan until the end of July.  What’s next for the crew?  South Africa!!!!!!!!

 

 

Go Climb Something!!!!

 

 

V8 at Ogawayama down by the lower river

 

Unnamed V13

 

Burning Maps V8

 

Mizugaki, Japan

 

Jack translating and old Rock and Snow on Ogawayama

 

V10 on the Bansousha Slab

 

Always take time to stop and smell the flowers!

eddiegianelloni.com

3 Responses to “Ashima In Japan”

  1. Joe says:

    Very cool. I love that last picture!

  2. Marcelo Campos says:

    Ashima,

    Beaultiful photos and always so happy to see you climbing everywhere!

    Kind regards,

    Marcelo (Kentucky) 😉

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