TNFC Japan Rock Trip Day 2 and 3

After a fantastic trip to Jogasaki, we all headed to the Ginza district of Tokyo for a delicious yaki tori, grilled chicken, dinner and a night to recharge for the next two days in Shiobara. Daniel Woods had come to Japan the year before to try Hydra V14, Catharsis V14, and his ultimate goal Hydrangea V15. The temperatures where very cold last year and did not let up a single day. Daniel left sending all but Hydrangea.

This year he was even more determined. He had spent all year thinking about the moves and psyching himself up for his trip back to Shiobara. Big Up Production and Sender Films were also here this year filming for a spot in Reel Rock 8 which was an added factor for Daniel to send. The morning that we showed up to the Shiobara bouldering area it was snowing, but that wasn’t the worst of it. The wind was gusting 60 to 70 MPH, adding an almost unbearable chill that everyone felt to the bone. With the snow blowing in every direction Daniel gave us the thumbs up and headed down the trail.

The perfect roof that Hydrangea is located on has a small opening at the very bottom that creates a sort of wind tunnel. This opening is precisely where Hydrangea’s staring feet are located. As Daniel warmed up he kept slipping off of the starting feet two or three moves into the problem. Yuji, having been here many times before, jammed a small pad into the gap subsequently blocking most of the wind passing through the tunnel. We all thanked Yuji-San and D started to move out of the lower section and through the middle section.

Taking small breaks in between trying to link the ending, Daniel took a long lunch and was ready after. Everyone was psyched. As Daniel made it through the first crux to the start of Hydra everyone thought this was going to be the moment. Shutters gunning from every direction, making sure to capture the second ascent of this truly tough test piece. Daniel made it all of the way past the double toe hook through to the final move to a “decent” hold. His feet cut and he could not hold the swing. Daniel let out a yell that silenced everyone there. He was very disappointed. He called it for the day making sure to leave some skin for tomorrow’s session. The weather forecast called for the same temps but no wind. Better conditions for sure.

The next day Daniel was psyched with the weather conditions. As predicted, there was no wind and the temps were in the high to mid 30’s. After only a few warm ups Daniel was psyched to try and finish this exhaustive project. On his final try of the day Daniel, pink finger tipped and numb, pulled through the lower crux. He continued through the perfectly flat roof to the double toe hook. With everyone yelling “Come On” and “Ganba”, Daniel controlled the final swing out of the roof with a one arm lock off. He had done it.

Afterward I asked him how it felt and he said “It is for real V15, but on the harder side. Definitely one of the hardest problems I’ve ever sent.” He went on to say that it was right up there with Witness the Fitness.

We all packed up and headed back to Tokyo where Daniel and Jain Kim, of Korea, would give a slideshow at The North Face store. The following day was a rest day, but the following we planned to check out Futigoyama. This is the crag where Yuji Hirayama’s Flat Mountain 5.14d/15a is located. Daniel wanted to see what it all about. Day four post coming soon.

Go Climb Something!!!!!